USA vs. Brazil = Incomparable... System Crash ... Blue Screen of Death!

I have just returned from what I would call the best vacation I have ever had in my entire life - without a doubt. Yes, I have traveled the world and seen many countries and cultures, but this time my vacation was only 4 days, I didn't want to leave and actually got emotional in the airport when I arrived and the day I left. Destination? The United States of America.

I have said this many times to other people but I finally got the reality check I needed. After 94 days in Brazil and upon my arrival into the United States I finally, FINALLY realized how truly blessed and proud I am to be a "Yank," "Gringo," and most of all American. I equate Brazil to Mars because that is how truly far apart the similarities between the USA and Brazil are. 

I could write a 1,000-page novel but I don't think I need to. I'll just list the key points:

• I did not lose electricity; have a power surge and/or brownout.
• The longest time I waited in line was at the border to clear customs, which was 9 minutes.
• I applied for a credit card online, was approved, and received it in the mail two days later. Never once stepping foot in the bank to provide more information or wait 5 hours only to be told I needed something else and then have to return again and wait another 5 hours.
• I had trouble sleeping because it was too quite. No trucks, motorcycles, cars racing up and down the road without regard for human life.
• I was able to buy purchase $700.00 worth of goods at a tax rate of 6% and did not need to provide my:
• a) SSN/CPF
• b) Fingerprint 
• c) Photo 
• d) Three signatures 
• e) PIN 
• f) Was able to complete every transaction with a credit card in less than 5 seconds without worry of the credit terminals having a 3G signal or worry of my credit card number being skimmed by the government.
• The $700USD worth of goods purchased would have could approximately $2,100USD in Brazil.
• I was able to drive from place to place with other cars on the road at the posted speed limit while obeying all traffic laws and respecting the rights of others.
• Was able to carry my wallet in my back pocket without having to check if it was still there 5 minutes later. (And it always was!)
• Carry my iPhone 5 in public and talk/text without fear of a thief or criminal ripping it out of my hand.
• Was only required to fill out one form my entire trip, which was my customs declaration form. Everything else was just my signature on a credit card receipt.
• Went to the grocery store and found everything I needed without the need to visit 6 other grocery stores to complete my shopping.
• Did not fear police brutality or persecution. 
• Didn't see military police anywhere - after all in the United States and most of the western world they are only found on the military bases where soldiers are.
• Did not lose Internet signal even for a fraction of second.
• My cell phone remained in 4G/LTE and 100% signal the entire time.
• Purchasing, activating, adding credit, making international calls did not require a SSN/CPF and activation took 30 seconds.
• I didn't have to watch violent protests every night on the news.
• Did not have drunks wobbling in front of the door outside my house at 10AM.
• Went to the ATM only one time to test my Brazilian debit card to verify it worked. Withdrew $20USD and was charged $7USD by the Brazilian bank for the withdrawal - thanks!

I really could go on, but I think we all get the point. From now on when someone says something ignorant or arrogant about the United States I will assume they are just jealous because they live an oppressed life filled by bureaucracy and political corruption.

It took several attempts to convince my parents how much different and bureaucratic Brazil is. After all, if someone told me prior to moving I would have laughed and said THAT IS IMPOSSIBLE! I would have been so wrong.

That said, it baffles me it truly does and I honestly don't see why you can dislike like something so good? All politics and US foreign policy aside.... It ain't that bad. Something must be working. 

Fervent Reminder About Being Taken Advantage of in Brazil

I just want to remind everyone who lives or intends to live in Brazil to remain extremely vigilant about Brazilians taking advantage of you. It is quite clear they think all Americans and Canadians are made of money and money grows on trees in our home countries. (I am sure it is the same for most Europeans, Australians, New Zealanders and developed countries as well.)

I recently found an apartment, and since day one it has been nothing but surprises. Now that they have seen my paystub from the US they expect me to pay for things never mentioned previously. I do not know if they were trying to call my bluff or what but today they went to far and I told them enough is enough, I am not interested. Even if it costs me an addition R1.000 to remain where I am at for another two weeks, I refuse to be taken advantage of and tossed around like the ever so holy soccer ball the rules this country.

Be warned and be vigilant especially when it has to do with money. Not all Brazilians are like this but unfortunately there are many that exist. 

Happy Birthday Manaus!

WATCH CAPRICHOSO 2013 FULL DVD HERE

Well, I will sleep better knowing Manaus is a Scorpio like me. Manaus celebrated its birthday on October 24 and I celebrated mine October 25. When you get to be my age there isn't much to celebrate but considering Boi Bumba came to town this past weekend I splurged.

Boi Bumba is truly spectacular and in my opinion, if you have been to the Amazonas and have not seen Boi Bumba then you never have been to the Amazonas. I covered the folk lore festivals in a previous post but Boi Bumba is by far the largest of all the folk lore festivals in the Amazonas and its grand show "Parintins Festival" which usually takes place in June, is second largest festival in Brazil. Carnival comes in first.

There are two 'flavors' of Boi Bumba - Caprichoso and Garantido. Anyone born and raised, or adopted in the Amazonas (like me) will tell you. You can only be one or the other - you can not support both. The rivalry is extremely intense - but when the dance begins everyone unites as one.

I identify with Caprichoso because the music seems to be more lively and upbeat, whereas Garantido tends to be slower and boring [my opinion hehe].

A trip to the Amazonas without seeing Boi Bumba is just unthinkable to me. The only reason I like the Amazonas is because of its folk lore - music, dance, festivals. That isn't to say if an opportunity knocks I won't leave for another state and return for every Boi Bumba appearance.

[left: Caprichoso - Symbol Star; right: Garantido - Symbol Heart]

Read More about Boi Bumba: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bumba_Meu_Boi
Read More about Parintins Festival: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parintins_Folklore_Festival

WATCH CAPRICHOSO 2013 FULL DVD HERE

Deciding on Brazil... Should I or Shouldn't I

Not long ago I made probably the biggest decision of my life by giving up everything and I mean everything I ever owned or worked for to move to Brazil. It was a decision I made of my own free will with very little influence from other people. Truthfully, I am the stubborn type and when I set my mind on something I will pretty much do whatever it takes to get it. That also what I would like to think makes me a survivor.

All the reasons I had for moving to Brazil are still technically valid - well almost. Five days before I moved (and 30 day too late) US Secretary of State, John Kerry announced that same-sex couples would be given the same visa privileges as heterosexual couples. (http://www.state.gov/secretary/remarks/2013/08/212643.htm)

I remember the true sense of anger that went through my body when I saw the announcement. I was absolutely irritated and visibly pissed off. I should have know right then and there where I really wanted to be. Under any other circumstance I would have normally been thrilled! It is clear - since I have been in Brazil I have already begun preparations to move back to the United States with my spouse once his K-1 visa application is provisionally approved. Here is the funny part - it will take longer for him to get his passport than it will a provisional visa to enter the United States. And if he didn't vote, he can't get a passport. That is right folks. No vote, no fun. Obligatory voting does exist, I never knew such a thing could be imposed on a human being!

Do I regret making the move? No. Would I do it again if asked? No. Why not? Because no matter how many times you are told, how long you mentally prepare yourself, no matter what you say or do to convince yourself it is the right decision - you honestly just won't know the truth until you actually DO IT.

My suggestion to anyone, even with the slightest inclination to consider moving to Brazil on the basis of marriage, investment, retirement, work, etc. is this. Read, read, read. Visit, visit, visit. I often read about people simply stating "Oh I want to move to Brazil, does anyone know how?" If you are asking that question you probably need to read more. Bureaucracy is at the very heart of Brazilian culture, it is the norm, it is accepted, and if you do not like it - guess what? You better start because you are in for one hell of a surprise.

I friend of mine told me recently - Matt you can't change Brazil. He is right. In my opinion it is a hopeless cause. Because if the citizens of the great country don't want to change it, why should I even care? Deep down inside I do care, but I just assume accept it for what it is and pray the people wake up and smell the coffee. Meanwhile I will continue to educate outsiders and expats outside Brazil about the true reality of the country. I have said several times before that Brazil has so much potential - SO MUCH. They must be blind. Hopefully the World Cup and/or the Olympics can help the people understand what happens in Brazil is truly BRAZILIAN - no other country I know can take claim to a similar culture or beliefs.

Bottom line is -

• Visit Brazil at a bare minimum for a cumulative total of 30 days.
• Obtain your CPF in Brazil before moving. (this will give you a very good idea what this blog is about - http://www.liveinbrazil.org/getting-cpf/    < --- I do not endorse anything other than this page on linked site.)
• Know what type of visa you qualify for. If you still need ask you need to read more before moving.
• Have a STRONG support system. And I mean rock solid. Have someone you can talk to if you are having problems. I realize this sounds like addiction treatment but I am serious. (Find an expat community - http://www.expat-blog.com)
• Have a basic understanding of Portuguese (read this article: http://www.expat-blog.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=151289) 
• And whatever you do, don't move to Brazil thinking it is like what you see on TV. Yes, skyscrapers exists, awesome shopping, beautiful people, new houses but to most Brazilians they aren't 100% of Brazil. See the picture below - yes you can find housing like this - but a lot of people can not afford this lifestyle.

What about my money? Money transfer/withdrawal tips

I am seeing more and more people ask "What is the best method for me to transfer my money from my bank account here to Brazil?" Here is my answer in one contraction "DON'T." Now you ask why. This post will talk about the most cost effective way to get your money in Brazil by avoiding the bureaucracy, astronomical fees, long lines and just overall unpleasant experience.

I travel internationally frequently. The lucrative signs in the airport that say "Currency Exchange" and I love the "no commission." Do yourself a favor - kindly walk by them and forget them. Instead of using this, please use an ATM in the country you are going. Never, ever, ever exchange money unless you are in a very unique situation - I can't think of any situation other than life and death. You will get a horrible exchange rate, pay hidden and inflated fees and walk away screwed.

What about MoneyGram and Western Union? These are valid options in Brazil but with these services you pay a send fee which really isn't justifiable unless you are sending a large sum of money at which point you will possibly be signing documents, answering questions and paying more taxes when you receive it in Brazil.

What about International Wire through my bank? Avoid like the plague. I have never sent an international wire and never will. Not only is it a complicated process in which you could easily make a mistake the fees are outrageous. Simply put do not do it.

What is the best way to withdrawal money in Brazil? At an ATM. But go before 6:00PM local time or risk a R$100,00 limit. That said, I have never used any other method to get my money other than an ATM. You skip the banker, and do it yourself thus avoiding forms and questions. Most US bank accounts have a daily ATM withdrawal limit of anywhere between $300 - $1000USD. Most Brazilian banks only allow R$1.000,00 to be withdrawn per card per day. So if you have two accounts you could easily transfer money into two accounts and get up to R$2.000,00 per day. The currency exchange rate is real, not inflated and you can rest assured you are not getting screwed. Avoid ATMs at the airport, grocery stores, etc. as these often charge a fee of R12,00. If you go to the bank and use the ATM there you are good to go. Keep in mind your US bank will most likely charge a fee for the withdrawal so minimize your withdrawals by making larger withdrawals. 

Finally, never close your account back at home. You will lose the ability to shop online at stores in the United States using the US Dollar. You will also subject yourself to Brazilian banking which is hardly peace of mind.

   

The contagious epidemic of mediocrity in Brazil

Recently I started telling other expat focused groups, blogs and forums about my personal blog. The feedback I have gotten back has been very constructive, positive and even at some points downright obnoxious.

This post is to recognize those that provided positive and constructive feedback and to respond to those who were less than helpful.

For one I want to set the record straight. I moved to Brazil because I wanted to live here. I actually love this country, its people, culture and hospitality. I would not have given up everything to be here without thoroughly thinking through the decision. That would be very childish and impulsively and ultimately led to my return within a few days. I rank my decision as the second most difficult decision I made in my life. That said I fully prepared myself for what I would expect once I made the move. I was well aware of this countries world famous bureaucracy, infrastructure issues, laziness and mediocrity this country accepts and lives by daily. What I was not aware of how contagious acceptance of these issues were!

That said, I will begin to reflect my love for this amazing country more in my posts. That said, my sarcasm will remain; along with relevant and useful information to prevent the same things happening to others.

Now, for the obnoxious feedback. I do not accept mediocrity. This country can be so much more than it is now and I mean SO MUCH MORE. In my personal opinion what holds it back is the general acceptance of mediocrity by the general population. The level of bureaucracy experienced here, horrible infrastructure, views towards human rights and overall generally lazy attitude towards life is far from "normal," especially as seen from westernized nations. By accepting it as the norm only contributes to the problem. What is truly intriguing though, it appears the acceptance of mediocrity has become contagious and spread to expats as well. 

That said - Brazil is a beautiful country and because I sarcastically comment on its insane policies and laws does not mean I do not want to be here. 

I'll leave with this - Brazil can always return to the days of this slogan:

Kraft Mac & Cheese Nightmare

Recently I had a family member send me my monthly care package. I have one sent monthly with important mail, any items purchased online (certainly not to exceed $50!), etc. This most recent package contained FOUR (4) $0.88USD Kraft Macaroni and Cheese. You know, the favorite food of kids?

My package promptly arrived in Sao Paulo on Wednesday afternoon and immediately seized pending further inspection because I was stupid enough to declare the Macaroni and Cheese - not to mention give a very broad description - food. The following morning I called UPS to find out what I needed to do. About an hour later I received an e-mail with the necessary steps and documents in order to secure a speedy release. Of course none of the documents were in Portuguese. My problem is this - all this for Mac & Cheese? Seriously?

So I completed the necessary declaration which was absolute insanity stating what type of food, its intended purpose and where it will be stored, etc. Again, four boxes of processed macaroni and non-perishable.

I was told the package would be presented again for inspection on Friday and would have more information after 3PM. Well, I received a reply that it was sent to MAPA for inspection. What does that mean? You guessed it - more documentation! I had to fill out another declaration identical as the first but made out to MAPA.

Today, I attempted to follow up again. Apparently the release from MAPA can take up to 7 working days to complete. I was assured that it would be presented for inspection tomorrow morning and most likely released that same day (one would hope considering this is a 7.25oz =205g box of Macaroni!)

I have spent at least 2 hours I this entire process and probably over R$20,00 in phone calls. Soon with the shipping and time spent (possibly import taxes too) I could have flown to Miami bought 100 boxes an iPad and returned at a cost cheaper than this entire experience!

More to come - for those that do not know what Kraft Mac & Cheese is here is a picture.

22 Hour Blackout - OVER

Wow. Seriously? I am trying to think back to the longest period of time I went without electricity, and I only can come up with 3 hours, probably less.

At 14:00 yesterday my worst nightmare came true - we lost power. But it wasn't just one of the daily brown-outs we have daily that last 5-30 minutes. It turned into a 22 hour blackout. 

What really gets me is how people are so lackadaisical here. Everything is NORMAL, no matter how absurd or insane you consider it.

When power was restored we went back to our house and passed a house where someone was murdered. It looked like a circus/party. People were laughing and chatting as if it was no big deal. Where is the humanity! Then again, it's NORMAL!

http://www.amazonianarede.com.br/pol%C3%ADcia/8580-pol%C3%ADcia-civil-investiga-homic%C3%ADdio-no-bairro-parque-dez

I will limit this post the the Amazonas region as I hear different stories about other regions in Brazil that actually sound NORMAL to me. I wonder what it would be to someone from the Amazonas? SUPER-NORMAL?

Until next time .....

Tips for making the most of your money....

It just dawned on me the other day that I could be making better use of my money here in Brazil. These tips are also relevant in the United States however Brazilian business have capitalized on profiting off customers in a "hurry" or customers that want something without having the money to pay for it right away.

Most stores in Brazil offer a "cartão da loja" a.k.a. a store credit card. Employees walk throughout the store like used car salesmen asking (begging) you to sign up for one. While the majority are pretty basic in practice, where they get you is if you buy something and break it up into payments. In the US when when you pay for something by credit it is paid how you choose as long as you make the minimum payment. Here in Brazil you specifically state how many months you want to spread out the payment - some stores go all the way up to 12 months. What they try to hide from you is the interest you will pay; which is and can be as high as 22%. Be careful. It is best just to pay it off at the end of the month and establish a solid credit history with the store. I am not sure if these cards actually report to the credit bureaus but nonetheless you are wasting money when you pay interest on items you can pay for right away.

Another easy way to save money is to buy everything you possibly can in bulk and at a grocery store. Buying items when you are in a hurry comes at a premium. For example a case of beer at the gas station costs R$40,00 where at a grocery store it costs R$19.90. That is a 50% markup. This isn't just for beer, it is for almost all items you purchase.

You gotta be kidding me....

Another day in Manaus, needless to say very little surprises me anymore. Last night I purchased a "pos   pago" (post-paid) plan at Claro. What takes 15 minutes in the United States took over 2 hours. I actually recall my last car purchase in Chicago took only 1.25 hours. So I guess buying a cell phone is a BIG deal here. Claro seems to have by far the fastest internet in Manaus. They claim 4G (b/s). Unfortunately it is pretty much useless outside of Manaus. 

Today I planned on going to the bank to pay a GRU for my spouses passport - surprise! Every bank in the Amazonas is on strike. You got to be kidding me. How can people function here without access to there money? By drinking. Now I know why there are so many parties here - because it's the way to cope with laziness, long days, bureaucracy and bullshit. 

What's next? :-)

I must be dreamin.... Free NFL Sunday Ticket in Brazil?

Well my day just got better... I feel like I won the lottery.

There is a free and easy way to watch all the NFL games (recorded or live) in Brazil. I guess the NFL likes to screw the people that live in the US and make it easy on expats. Anyways, you can watch on your computer, phone or tablet. Look at this link:

gamepass.nfl.com

Wooooooooohooooooooo! :p

I survived Brazil for... 1 month!

After 30 days in Brazil I am happy to say I have survived, and have no regrets about making the big decision to move. I now live in a country that is extremely bureaucratic but definitely gives its citizens and residents to live equally amongst each other. Don't get me wrong, certain parts of Brazil are not as open minded as others and in addition certain government agencies. But in the month I have lived here I know am in my permanency process, have been married, received my protocol from the DPF, work book from the Ministry of Labor and have met amazing and wonderful people throughout Manaus. Here is to anther great month in the Amazon... And now the job hunting begins!

Car Rental Saga

Note to self - whenever renting a car in Brazil, cancel the credit card after renting. I was notified by Chase (my bank) that AVIS has tried to run my cancelled credit card 26x all for varying amounts. Not very comforting! Glad I cancelled my card when I did, but getting a new one sent to me is a pain in the ...............!

Bank Account Open

Well, despite the 4 hour wait in the bank today, I officially opened a bank account. I guess preparing ahead of time for the bureaucracy helped a great deal speed up the process. However, the waiting in the bank was extremely painful. To date besides applying for marriage this was by far the most painful process. I suggest anyone intending to move to Brazil as an expatriate check out the Brazil forum on the expat-blog.com. This site really helped me prepare for everything I was facing well in advance. Besides finding a job, I think I am good to go until December and now I can sit back and relax and help others through this painful process/culture shock.

Couldn't open a bank account, but got my work permit....

Ahhh, another wonderful day in Brazil. Spent 2.5 hours in Bradesco trying to open a bank account. Waited 2.75 hours to be told I need a declaration from my landlord that I lived at my address, even though I had a credit card bill and a notarized apartment lease. Seriously? So tomorrow I get to spend another 3 hours waiting. The good news is I got my work permit. It took less than 30 minutes. Just needed to show my protocol, CPF, marriage certificate (show originals, and provide copies.) The lady told us we didn't need notarized/authenticated copies but I have a saying especially in this country - "it is better to be safe than sorry." I have my green book and can work legally in Brazil, albeit I speak very little Portuguese!

Useful Tips (common sense safety)

I have come across a couple common occurrences not normal in the United States but seem to be very common in Brazil.

1) if you buy alcohol (bottle) make sure it is sealed and completely full. On two occasions now I have purchased half empty bottles of Vodka. 

2) if you attend a festival or large gathering do not carry your wallet or purse with you. If you must, then don't carry every credit card you have. That way if you lose it you aren't without a backup card. Minimize your losses. 

3) try use a credit/debit card for every purchase unless you must use cash. Your card carries the same protection as it does in the United States.

Festival de Ciranda - Day 2

Another fantastic experience last night. The dance and music is all the same to me but never say that to a Brazilian. They take there music, dance and colors very seriously - kind of like Americans do with their football teams. Most cities of some size in the Amazonas has some regional dance specific to each respective city. For example - Manacapuru (Ciranda) Novo Airão (Pena Branca). Most festivals have ended for the year - thank God, the partying is insane here. Last night I passed by numerous people that were passed out on the street sleeping in their own vomit. Pretty sad and disturbing. 

Festival de Ciranda - Day 1

Wow. What a night last night. Very good performance, music, culture and atmosphere. It's events like this that make me truly appreciate Brazil and its fascinating culture. Tonight a different performance hopefully just as good as last night! Oh, still haven't heard from AVIS!

Off to Ciranda!

Well two days now with intermittent electricity... Thank God I am getting acclimated to the heat. Tomorrow I leave for Manacapuru for the annual folklore festival. Always enjoy good Amazon culture and dance. Check out this festival held annually there. It is not a big as Boi Bumba but very close:

Festival de Ciranda de Manacapuru

Thank God for AceVPN

Before moving to Brazil I realized that I would be giving up certain luxuries I have at home. One being access to American TV. I have found an awesome solution to bypass American TV networks detection of my IP Address - AceVPN (www.acevpn.com). With this service I am given a VPN solution in which I login and obtain an IP address located in various cities within the United States, and abroad as well. In addition I have access to Free TV which allows me to use my Roku and Apple TV as if I never left home. I have used the service actively for two weeks and have experienced no issues with reliability or performance. The VPN does not degrade your network speed at all, and movies/TV shows stream without issue. Two packages are available depending on what you need. Check it out - a must for expatriates. Thank you AceVPN for providing this awesome service.

Culture shock - no car, banking made agonizing)

For the first time in my life I have no car and now must use others methods or transportation to get around Manaus... I still have not subjected myself to public transit but this Friday I will.. not looking forward to it at all but it is much cheaper than a taxi (R$2.90 = bus anywhere in Manaus.) Yesterday I spent R$30 on a 2.5 hour trip to the bank and grocery store. And banking here is painful. I never have waited longer in my life to deposit money or complete a simple transaction. The ATM machines are not reliable either, hit or miss if they work. You can always find the gringo because they are the ones trying to use the broken ATM because they don't speak Portuguese! (ME) ...

Rental Car Nightmare 8/25/13

Decided to take a weekend trip to Novo Airão this weekend in a rental car with my spouse. What a horrible place for A CAR KEY TO BREAK. Yes, that's right a car key. The kicker is it was a VW which of course had the $350 security chip inside. Needless to say there was no VW dealer in Novo Airão. The most logical and simplistic thing to do would have been to send someone from Manaus with another key or send a tow truck locally. What does AVIS do? Then send a tow truck from Manaus (3 hour drive one-way) to move a car less than 1/4km. Why? Because of insurance reasons. So I'm back in Manaus, with no car - the car remains in Novo Airão awaiting what? That's correct another tow. Updates to follow! Welcome to Brazil!