Checking in - Returning to Brazil..

Most of you may or may not know that I left Brazil with the intention of never returning again for the length of my natural life. [12/27] The truth is I do miss a lot of things about Brazil. I mainly miss my friends and "Boi Bumba." However, living in Brazil was hazardous to my health. Most people have this misconception that Brazil is paradise, with beaches, babes, warm temperatures, clean cities, etc. While I would like to think this is all true it is far from the truth. 

That said, ironically my new company is sending me back to Brazil on my first day of work. Go figure. I won't be in Manaus, instead I will be visiting Sao Paulo. On my return for Miami I will make a 5 day stop in Manaus and check up on my spouse and continue with the permanent visa process for the USA.

And truthfully, as much as I write about my complete and utter dislike for the government in Brazil I am actually excited to be with my friends again. If there is one thing about Brazil I like the most it is my friends. I have more loyal friends in Brazil than I do in my own home country. 

Até breve....

You Know You're In Brazil....

A very big thanks to my buddy James for this. It made my day yesterday!

You know you're in Brazil when the postcard you sent to your folks, won't arrive until 3 weeks after you've already gotten home.

You know your in Brazil when the factories and residential housing looks more like prisons than the prisons do.

You know you're in Brazl when the population of the city bus you've just gotten on is greater than your hometown.

You know you're in Brazil when there is a fifteen minute wait in the line-up just for the ATM.

You know you're in Brazil when the cracks on the side panel in the bus you're riding in are covered up with postage stamps with the figure of Dom Pedro II.

You know you're in Brazil when everybody drives at night without headlights. 

You know you're in Brazil when you put your arm out the window to signal a turn and somebody takes your watch.

You know you're in Brazil when you ask 10 different people for directions and get 10 different answers - all wrong!!! (Worse still one of those people actually lives on the street you were asking about.)

You know you're in Brazil when a bottle of beer is cheaper than a bottle of water and a pack of cigarettes is cheaper than that too. (go figure!)

You know you're in Brazil when you go into any bathroom and there's a wastebasket next to every toilet and usually a big warning sign that you CAN'T FLUSH TOILET PAPER!!! 

You know you're in Brazil when the only thing hotter than the weather is the Acarajé you've just bitten into!!! (OMG they're sooooooooooooo damned hot, but ohhhhhhhhh so good!)

You know you are in Brazil when you have to visit six different grocery stores in order to find a common household item.

You know you are in Brazil when you wait in line at the ATM machine for 30 minutes only to find out it has no money.

You know you are in Brazil when you receive a utility bill in the mail and payment is due three days later.

You know you are in Brazil when your life become centered around an establishment called a "Cartorio."

You know you are in Brazil when the police are dressed like the military and act like soldiers.

You know you are in Brazil when you hear rain and run to charge every handheld device in your house.

You know you are in Brazil when you have to leave every electrical device in your home unplugged for fear of a power surge and/or brown out.

You know you are in Brazil (Manaus) when you lose power daily and your neighbors tell you it is not normal - it is "MUITO NORMAL." 

You know you are NOT in Brazil when your electricity remains on for longer than 24 hours without losing it.

USA vs. Brazil = Incomparable... System Crash ... Blue Screen of Death!

I have just returned from what I would call the best vacation I have ever had in my entire life - without a doubt. Yes, I have traveled the world and seen many countries and cultures, but this time my vacation was only 4 days, I didn't want to leave and actually got emotional in the airport when I arrived and the day I left. Destination? The United States of America.

I have said this many times to other people but I finally got the reality check I needed. After 94 days in Brazil and upon my arrival into the United States I finally, FINALLY realized how truly blessed and proud I am to be a "Yank," "Gringo," and most of all American. I equate Brazil to Mars because that is how truly far apart the similarities between the USA and Brazil are. 

I could write a 1,000-page novel but I don't think I need to. I'll just list the key points:

• I did not lose electricity; have a power surge and/or brownout.
• The longest time I waited in line was at the border to clear customs, which was 9 minutes.
• I applied for a credit card online, was approved, and received it in the mail two days later. Never once stepping foot in the bank to provide more information or wait 5 hours only to be told I needed something else and then have to return again and wait another 5 hours.
• I had trouble sleeping because it was too quite. No trucks, motorcycles, cars racing up and down the road without regard for human life.
• I was able to buy purchase $700.00 worth of goods at a tax rate of 6% and did not need to provide my:
• a) SSN/CPF
• b) Fingerprint 
• c) Photo 
• d) Three signatures 
• e) PIN 
• f) Was able to complete every transaction with a credit card in less than 5 seconds without worry of the credit terminals having a 3G signal or worry of my credit card number being skimmed by the government.
• The $700USD worth of goods purchased would have could approximately $2,100USD in Brazil.
• I was able to drive from place to place with other cars on the road at the posted speed limit while obeying all traffic laws and respecting the rights of others.
• Was able to carry my wallet in my back pocket without having to check if it was still there 5 minutes later. (And it always was!)
• Carry my iPhone 5 in public and talk/text without fear of a thief or criminal ripping it out of my hand.
• Was only required to fill out one form my entire trip, which was my customs declaration form. Everything else was just my signature on a credit card receipt.
• Went to the grocery store and found everything I needed without the need to visit 6 other grocery stores to complete my shopping.
• Did not fear police brutality or persecution. 
• Didn't see military police anywhere - after all in the United States and most of the western world they are only found on the military bases where soldiers are.
• Did not lose Internet signal even for a fraction of second.
• My cell phone remained in 4G/LTE and 100% signal the entire time.
• Purchasing, activating, adding credit, making international calls did not require a SSN/CPF and activation took 30 seconds.
• I didn't have to watch violent protests every night on the news.
• Did not have drunks wobbling in front of the door outside my house at 10AM.
• Went to the ATM only one time to test my Brazilian debit card to verify it worked. Withdrew $20USD and was charged $7USD by the Brazilian bank for the withdrawal - thanks!

I really could go on, but I think we all get the point. From now on when someone says something ignorant or arrogant about the United States I will assume they are just jealous because they live an oppressed life filled by bureaucracy and political corruption.

It took several attempts to convince my parents how much different and bureaucratic Brazil is. After all, if someone told me prior to moving I would have laughed and said THAT IS IMPOSSIBLE! I would have been so wrong.

That said, it baffles me it truly does and I honestly don't see why you can dislike like something so good? All politics and US foreign policy aside.... It ain't that bad. Something must be working. 

Fervent Reminder About Being Taken Advantage of in Brazil

I just want to remind everyone who lives or intends to live in Brazil to remain extremely vigilant about Brazilians taking advantage of you. It is quite clear they think all Americans and Canadians are made of money and money grows on trees in our home countries. (I am sure it is the same for most Europeans, Australians, New Zealanders and developed countries as well.)

I recently found an apartment, and since day one it has been nothing but surprises. Now that they have seen my paystub from the US they expect me to pay for things never mentioned previously. I do not know if they were trying to call my bluff or what but today they went to far and I told them enough is enough, I am not interested. Even if it costs me an addition R1.000 to remain where I am at for another two weeks, I refuse to be taken advantage of and tossed around like the ever so holy soccer ball the rules this country.

Be warned and be vigilant especially when it has to do with money. Not all Brazilians are like this but unfortunately there are many that exist. 

Happy Birthday Manaus!

WATCH CAPRICHOSO 2013 FULL DVD HERE

Well, I will sleep better knowing Manaus is a Scorpio like me. Manaus celebrated its birthday on October 24 and I celebrated mine October 25. When you get to be my age there isn't much to celebrate but considering Boi Bumba came to town this past weekend I splurged.

Boi Bumba is truly spectacular and in my opinion, if you have been to the Amazonas and have not seen Boi Bumba then you never have been to the Amazonas. I covered the folk lore festivals in a previous post but Boi Bumba is by far the largest of all the folk lore festivals in the Amazonas and its grand show "Parintins Festival" which usually takes place in June, is second largest festival in Brazil. Carnival comes in first.

There are two 'flavors' of Boi Bumba - Caprichoso and Garantido. Anyone born and raised, or adopted in the Amazonas (like me) will tell you. You can only be one or the other - you can not support both. The rivalry is extremely intense - but when the dance begins everyone unites as one.

I identify with Caprichoso because the music seems to be more lively and upbeat, whereas Garantido tends to be slower and boring [my opinion hehe].

A trip to the Amazonas without seeing Boi Bumba is just unthinkable to me. The only reason I like the Amazonas is because of its folk lore - music, dance, festivals. That isn't to say if an opportunity knocks I won't leave for another state and return for every Boi Bumba appearance.

[left: Caprichoso - Symbol Star; right: Garantido - Symbol Heart]

Read More about Boi Bumba: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bumba_Meu_Boi
Read More about Parintins Festival: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parintins_Folklore_Festival

WATCH CAPRICHOSO 2013 FULL DVD HERE

Deciding on Brazil... Should I or Shouldn't I

Not long ago I made probably the biggest decision of my life by giving up everything and I mean everything I ever owned or worked for to move to Brazil. It was a decision I made of my own free will with very little influence from other people. Truthfully, I am the stubborn type and when I set my mind on something I will pretty much do whatever it takes to get it. That also what I would like to think makes me a survivor.

All the reasons I had for moving to Brazil are still technically valid - well almost. Five days before I moved (and 30 day too late) US Secretary of State, John Kerry announced that same-sex couples would be given the same visa privileges as heterosexual couples. (http://www.state.gov/secretary/remarks/2013/08/212643.htm)

I remember the true sense of anger that went through my body when I saw the announcement. I was absolutely irritated and visibly pissed off. I should have know right then and there where I really wanted to be. Under any other circumstance I would have normally been thrilled! It is clear - since I have been in Brazil I have already begun preparations to move back to the United States with my spouse once his K-1 visa application is provisionally approved. Here is the funny part - it will take longer for him to get his passport than it will a provisional visa to enter the United States. And if he didn't vote, he can't get a passport. That is right folks. No vote, no fun. Obligatory voting does exist, I never knew such a thing could be imposed on a human being!

Do I regret making the move? No. Would I do it again if asked? No. Why not? Because no matter how many times you are told, how long you mentally prepare yourself, no matter what you say or do to convince yourself it is the right decision - you honestly just won't know the truth until you actually DO IT.

My suggestion to anyone, even with the slightest inclination to consider moving to Brazil on the basis of marriage, investment, retirement, work, etc. is this. Read, read, read. Visit, visit, visit. I often read about people simply stating "Oh I want to move to Brazil, does anyone know how?" If you are asking that question you probably need to read more. Bureaucracy is at the very heart of Brazilian culture, it is the norm, it is accepted, and if you do not like it - guess what? You better start because you are in for one hell of a surprise.

I friend of mine told me recently - Matt you can't change Brazil. He is right. In my opinion it is a hopeless cause. Because if the citizens of the great country don't want to change it, why should I even care? Deep down inside I do care, but I just assume accept it for what it is and pray the people wake up and smell the coffee. Meanwhile I will continue to educate outsiders and expats outside Brazil about the true reality of the country. I have said several times before that Brazil has so much potential - SO MUCH. They must be blind. Hopefully the World Cup and/or the Olympics can help the people understand what happens in Brazil is truly BRAZILIAN - no other country I know can take claim to a similar culture or beliefs.

Bottom line is -

• Visit Brazil at a bare minimum for a cumulative total of 30 days.
• Obtain your CPF in Brazil before moving. (this will give you a very good idea what this blog is about - http://www.liveinbrazil.org/getting-cpf/    < --- I do not endorse anything other than this page on linked site.)
• Know what type of visa you qualify for. If you still need ask you need to read more before moving.
• Have a STRONG support system. And I mean rock solid. Have someone you can talk to if you are having problems. I realize this sounds like addiction treatment but I am serious. (Find an expat community - http://www.expat-blog.com)
• Have a basic understanding of Portuguese (read this article: http://www.expat-blog.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=151289) 
• And whatever you do, don't move to Brazil thinking it is like what you see on TV. Yes, skyscrapers exists, awesome shopping, beautiful people, new houses but to most Brazilians they aren't 100% of Brazil. See the picture below - yes you can find housing like this - but a lot of people can not afford this lifestyle.

What about my money? Money transfer/withdrawal tips

I am seeing more and more people ask "What is the best method for me to transfer my money from my bank account here to Brazil?" Here is my answer in one contraction "DON'T." Now you ask why. This post will talk about the most cost effective way to get your money in Brazil by avoiding the bureaucracy, astronomical fees, long lines and just overall unpleasant experience.

I travel internationally frequently. The lucrative signs in the airport that say "Currency Exchange" and I love the "no commission." Do yourself a favor - kindly walk by them and forget them. Instead of using this, please use an ATM in the country you are going. Never, ever, ever exchange money unless you are in a very unique situation - I can't think of any situation other than life and death. You will get a horrible exchange rate, pay hidden and inflated fees and walk away screwed.

What about MoneyGram and Western Union? These are valid options in Brazil but with these services you pay a send fee which really isn't justifiable unless you are sending a large sum of money at which point you will possibly be signing documents, answering questions and paying more taxes when you receive it in Brazil.

What about International Wire through my bank? Avoid like the plague. I have never sent an international wire and never will. Not only is it a complicated process in which you could easily make a mistake the fees are outrageous. Simply put do not do it.

What is the best way to withdrawal money in Brazil? At an ATM. But go before 6:00PM local time or risk a R$100,00 limit. That said, I have never used any other method to get my money other than an ATM. You skip the banker, and do it yourself thus avoiding forms and questions. Most US bank accounts have a daily ATM withdrawal limit of anywhere between $300 - $1000USD. Most Brazilian banks only allow R$1.000,00 to be withdrawn per card per day. So if you have two accounts you could easily transfer money into two accounts and get up to R$2.000,00 per day. The currency exchange rate is real, not inflated and you can rest assured you are not getting screwed. Avoid ATMs at the airport, grocery stores, etc. as these often charge a fee of R12,00. If you go to the bank and use the ATM there you are good to go. Keep in mind your US bank will most likely charge a fee for the withdrawal so minimize your withdrawals by making larger withdrawals. 

Finally, never close your account back at home. You will lose the ability to shop online at stores in the United States using the US Dollar. You will also subject yourself to Brazilian banking which is hardly peace of mind.